I had to replace the brakes, wheel cylinders, and axle seals on my 1990 Chevy Silverado 4x4 last weekend. I've owned the truck for going on 3 years, now. The previous owner (PO) told me it had a slight oil leak on the wheel seals, but it had passed inspection the previous two years so I didn't worry about it... until now.
I had the brakes checked a month ago and they told me the rear shoes were soaked with oil and brake fluid. Since I had to get it inspected prior to registering it in April, I knew I had to do something.
The weather didn't cooperate until the last couple weekends, so, I took an extra day off last week, and plunged in.
Normally brakes aren't that difficult, even with replacing the wheel cylinders. Axle seals aren't too bad, either, though they're messy because, at least on half ton trucks, you have to pull the cover on the differential and drain the gucky gear oil, then remove a bolt holding the shaft for one of the differential "spider" gears, and pull a couple keepers off the ends of the axles.
When I opened up the case, I could see that someone had been in there before--gobs of RTV sealant hanging off the inside edges of the cover. I also discovered why they hadn't repaired the leaking seals...
The lock bolt is threaded up near the head, but smooth down where it goes into a hole in the gear shaft.
When I took the bolt out, only the top came... oh-ohhhhh!!!
I hoped the lower part was just loose, and tried a magnet to coax it out... no luck.
I then tried to get a drill in the hole to drill a smaller hole in the remainder and get it out with an EZ-out, but no joy there, either. The hole is parallel to the axles and inside the housing so there's no room to get a straight shot with a drill.
I had wrestled with it for an hour when my neighbor walked over and asked what I was doing. I explained my predicament. He suggested I get one of my wife's large straight pins and try to turn it out with it. He said that when bolts break off they are often loose in the hole, but now there wasn't a head to put a wrench on, etc.
The straight pin is hardened steel and the sharp point digs in a little... you put it on the edge of the part you're trying to remove and move around the hole in a counter-clockwise direction, kind of like scraping out the corners of a pot with a spoon.
Lo and behold!-- it worked........ almost. The part came out a good 3/4 inch, but wouldn't come the last few threads. After trying for another hour, I finally found I was able to get to it with a small drill and drill a shallow, off-centered hole in it. I then put the drill bit in backwords and screwed it out of the hole similar to the procedure with the pin...There was still about 1 and 1/2 threads on the smooth part, so it wouldn't just slip out.
Although it took 3 hours to do it, my other alternative was to pull the differential out, get the pin out, then re-setup everything--something way beyond my capability, and expensive if I paid someone to do it.
So, there you have it. Often a straight pin can be used to remove a broken bolt.
Smitty
The joy of mechanicing in your driveway. I have done so much of the same over the years...saved thousands of dollars and put myself through the wringer a few times, but again...saved money and learned along the way.
ReplyDeleteGoing to College I spent a couple of tours working at a shop that specialized in engine building and street racing clientele. More fun working on my own equipment, but I was paid well enough wrenching for those who had more money than skill, or time, or desire or choose your own term.
Still work on my own things all I can. Saves money and I still find it worth while.
Jack Worthington